May 3: Montgomery Reef

It keeps getting better! Today was definitely one to remember — a real OMG experience.

First though was the morning expedition to see examples of Wandjina rock art at Raft Point in Talbot Bay. This is quite different in style to the Gwion Gwion art we saw a couple of days ago and “conforms” more closely with photos we’d seen before of Indigenous painting.

It was quite a strenuous walk up a rocky path to reach the gallery but well worth the effort (and good exercise, too, after all the food we’ve been devouring). Pam decided to stay on the Silver Discoverer, which was a wise move.

Neil, a representative of the traditional owners, was on hand to welcome us to country and explain the meaning of the art (the origin of life). You can see from my pic above that some of the art has been retouched — this was done about 8 years ago — and while it may sound pity for this to happen, it is something that has been done every now and then over millennia.

Neil, second from right, explaining the art. Great bloke — avid Bombers supporter!

During lunch the ship relocated to where we were embarked in convoy on the six zodiacs for a trip to Montgomery Reef — the 8th natural wonder of the world, according to David Attenborough. Covering an area of 400 square kilometres and about 80 km long, the reef is subject to unusual tidal movements of up to 10 metres.

When the tide is out, vast lagoons, sandstone islets and a central mangrove island are revealed. The outward movement of the tide forms a torrent of water, creating a river cutting through the reef and hundreds of cascading waterfalls.

The lagoon in the middle of the reef can’t be seen from the river, which is where our zodiacs took us, but it is never completely emptied by the outgoing tide. Migratory birds have a feast as the receding water reveals a mass of small fish and little crabs. Turtles were everywhere but they just pop their heads above the water for a few seconds and are impossible to photograph. Black tipped reef sharks and dugongs live here too but we didn’t see them.

My photography can’t truly do justice to this natural phenomenon but take it from me, we were all just gobsmacked at this previously unknown world wonder. A real highlight of the 10 day cruise.


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