Day Two: Hakodate

One word springs to mind about Hakodate today.  And it’s not spring!  “Cold” would be the operational word for the day even if we are in May.

Officially, it was 11 deg at lunch time.  It felt like 1 deg.  But I’m being picky because I was the only one not sufficiently weather-proofed.  Our intrepid painters were equipped for the Arctic — although I did notice a few shivers and I don’t think that was paint turning hands blue.

Today was our first full day of painting on the Hokkaido Horizons tour and we were bused from our hotel to Goryōkaku Park for a five-hour session, broken for a quick sandwich lunch, bought in advance from the 7/11 near our hotel.

Ev provided guidance with a demo from a spot overlooking the lovely old Japanese house (actually the former Hakodate Magistrate’s Office) surrounded by pine trees and the remains of the cherry blossoms.

The pic above is of a glorious weeping cherry tree, bursting with blossoms, but sadly most of the other trees we’d admired on Sunday had shed their pink spendour.

Back to the hotel in the afternoon for a well earned soak in a very hot tub in the roof-top rotemburo (open air bath).

Day one over.  Did I mention it was cold?

 

Day One: Hakodate

We’re all set!  The group has assembled at the La Vista Hakodate Bay Hotel after journeying to Hokkaidō from various points in Australia via Tokyo.

There are still blossoms on the cherry trees around town and the double ones (yaezakura) — see below — are beginning to bloom, so we should be in luck for tomorrow’s first day of painting in the Goryōkaku Park.

After a relaxing soak in the roof top onsen (hot spring bath), we enjoyed a welcome to Hokkaidō Horizons group dinner at the hotel and are now all ready to attack the serious task of watercolour painting tomorrow.

But not before an obligatory soft cream cone (ubiquitous in Hokkaidō, home to Japan’s dairy industry).

おやすみなさい😴 Good night.

 

 

 

Getting ready

We are currently completing arrangements for our 16-day painting tour of Hokkaido, Japan’s northern island and largest prefecture.

The tour begins in Hakodate on May 7 and ends in Kushiro on May 22, 2018.  In between, we will visit Lake Tōya, Otaru, Yoichi, Sapporo and Sōunkyō.

I’ll be blogging daily so standby for the first posts in early May.

 

January 2018

Day Fifteen: Kyoto & Sayonara

The final day of the 2017Jaunting around Japan Art Tour with Ev Hales — and what a glorious sunny day in Kyoto to bid all 16 of us a fond sayonara.

We spent the morning at Nijō Castle, the home of the Tokugawa shōgun during the 250 years that Japan was virtually cut off from the world.  Conveniently located across the road from our hotel, it didn’t take long to rally the troops after breakfast.

The castle is set in magnificent grounds and the architecture is breathtaking.  We all toured the shōgun’s home first, before the artists spent a couple of hours sketching in the gardens.

Personally, I can never tire of the structure of the rooofs, the wood work, the gilding and the carvings.

Back to the hotel for a latish buffet lunch and then a show and tell session with all the art from the past two weeks on display for us all to admire and for Ev to critique.

That’s it!  Many are staying on to explore Kyoto’s many temples, shrines and World Heritage sites, while others are on the Shinkansen to the airport tomorrow.

As my mother was fond of saying, “he who tooteth not his own horn, his own horn shall not be tooteth.”  So allow me to toot.  This was arguably the best group we’ve had the pleasure of escorting on an art tour and I believe the itinerary worked well in allowing everyone to experience something of the real Japan, beyond the big cities, and to appreciate why Japan remains very close to our hearts as a beautiful, charming and unique country.

Sayonara — until May 2018, when we will be in Hokkaido on the next Ev Hales art adventure.

Day Fourteen: Eiheiji and Kyoto

An early start today, but also a chance, with -1 deg outside, to catch a clear view of the Japan Alps from our bedroom windows:

We had a three-hour journey by private bus from Takayama to Eiheiji through some stunningly beautiful scenery — mountains, rivers, lakes, dams, waterfalls, gorges and hillsides splashed with the colours of autumn.

Ninety minutes at the 700-year-old Zen Buddhist temple of Eiheiji was probably not long enough to take in the subtle splendour of this exquisite complex set among a cedar forest, about 30 minutes from the city of Fukui.

The temple afforded glimpses of autumn colour at every corner, as well as ceilings full of watercolour art.

After Eiheiji, there was a quick lunch (and of course a soft cream) at Fukui station before taking the super fast Thunderbird Express to Kyoto — the last stop on our tour.

Day Thirteen: Takayama

Our last day in beautiful Takayama — and we had rain and a wintery blast (temperatures didn’t make it above 9 deg all day) to farewell us.

Our artists spent the day under doorways and awnings in Sanno-machi and accomplished a variety of sketches, while others explored and indulged in the ubiquitous softo-cream — so many flavours, including sake and black sesame, but peach is the best.

After lunch, we walked to the Takayama Festival Museum of Floats (yatai) and the Hachimangu shrine.  These incredibly tall floats are paraded through the streets each April and October and are intricately decorated.

A last look at some kōyō on the way back to our hotel for a final ofuro and meal before heading tomorrow to the final stop on this year’s Jaunting around Japan Art Tour with Ev Hales.

Glorious, even in the rain.

Day Twelve: Ainokura

What a spectacular day.  A cold start that turned into a brilliantly sunny day at the UNESCO World Heritage village of Ainokura, about 90 minutes (and dozens of tunnels) north-west of Takayama.

The gasshō-zukuri houses (so called as they resemble hands in prayer) along the Shōkawa River in the Gokayama District of Toyama Prefecture attract thousands of tourists every year, especially in the spring and autumn.  Ainokura, one of the furthest away, is much less crowded and we think more authentic as the 20 or so thatched roof buildings are inhabited and small businesses, like one making washi (Japanese paper) thrive.

While perhaps a wee bit late for full kōyō, the amber, gold, brown and green of the hillsides was a palette of colour for our artists who spent the whole day in the village turning out some great work in a challenging environment for painting.

The hills were alive…where was Julie Andrews when we needed a song?

Some wonderful views of the snow dusted peaks of the Japan Alps from our bus on the way “home” to Takayama, but I failed to snap the appropriate evidence.   I’ll see what I can do tomorrow. This really is a most beautiful part of Japan.

 

Days Ten & Eleven: Takayama

I’m combining two days as there was not a lot to report yesterday, except for our incident-free train journey from Shimoda to Takayama, via Atami and Nagoya.

Lyn took the opportunity to finish a painting while speeding along on Odoriko Super-View #2.

Waiting at Nagoya for the Hida Express to Takayama.  Hand luggage only.

Our Takayama hotel, the quaintly named Associa Resort, is gigantic (needs to be to accommodate the Russians — lots of them here) but the rooms, meals and ofuro are excellent.

Now for today (which, in case you’re not keeping up, is Thursday, November 9).  Great weather, if a little chilly (11 deg when we ventured forth) and kōyō (autumn colours) everywhere to incentivate artist and photographer alike.

The painting began in the morning at the Higashiyama temples and shrines overlooking Takayama city.

Some of us were a little more exuberant than others!

Samples of the morning’s efforts.

It was hard not to be inspired by the natural beauty that surrounded us (and pretty much it was just us — don’t know where the other tourists got to, but they weren’t up where we were).

After lunch, we moved down to Sanno-machi and the old homes and sake warehouses that make Takayama such a popular place to visit and paint.

Even a bride and groom in a rickshaw:

Off to see more kōyō and mountains tomorrow.  Meanwhile, I’m heading for a soak in the rotemburo.

Day Nine: Shimoda

Melbourne Cup Day dawned bright and sunny and reached a top of 23 degrees.  That was here in Shimoda.  (In Melbourne, we understand it was cold and rainy.)  To get into the spirit, we ran a sweep and managed to listen to the race courtesy of ABC Grandstand on my iPhone (at 1pm our time) — congratulations to Rick, the winner, Rhonda, for second, and, ahem… me third on Max Dynamite!

                                       Waiting for the race to start.

Apart from the race, the other big news was the announcement via a phone call from our daughter Kimi of the arrival of our fifth grandchild and third grandson Elijah Jade Dillner, in Melbourne: the real Melbourne Cup winner!

Here’s me receiving the news in a snap taken by fellow non-painter and Melbourne neighbour, Anne Kelso:

But back to the Art Tour.  We returned to Perry Road in Shimoda for painting and exploring among the temples and surrounds.  We had time for a group photo of the artists and two of the non-painters:

What a happy troop.  The scenery around the port is very picturesque, particularly on a bright sunny day:

The pathway around the bay had a big 危険 (Danger) sign at the start.  I wonder why:

Not a deterrent to our walkers!

Today was a lovely end to our time on the Izu Peninsula.  We handed back our two rental vans that had been driven by Chris and me for the last four days and said sayonara to Shimoda with a massive kaiseki dinner.

Takayama tomorrow — by train.

 

Day Eight: Kawazu

The start of our second week of Japan 2017 saw the group heading for central Izu and Kawazu Nanadaru (seven waterfalls).

The falls were stunning and so was the art that was produced this morning.

I admit to having a waterfall addiction.  Just love them.  Wish I could post my super video but I fear it would use up all my (and your) bandwidth.  Just a couple of more stills then.

More painting tomorrow in Shimoda township, Commodore Perry’s favourite port, on our last day in Izu before heading to the hills of Takayama.