Day Three: Marrakech
Another wonderful Marrakech day. A walk through the souks to get to the Place des Épices first off. A bit of retail therapy en route to a lovely café-restaurant where our artists occupied the whole of the top floor with great views over the square, the rooftops and the minarets.
After a late snack lunch we were guided through the souks to La Maison de la Photographie – an incredible exhibition of 19th and 20th century black and white photography of old Marrakech and environs, with an emphasis on Berber culture.
Then another stroll through the souks back to our riads, but not much shopping as it was Friday afternoon and the Islamic day of prayer and rest.
Dinner this evening was a special treat. Pam and I first dined at Dar el Yacout in 2000 and it didn’t disappoint. Although rain prevented pre-dinner cocktails on the roof, we were still well catered for.
The décor of this old house is just superb. And so was our four-course banquet beginning at 8 and ending at 11pm. Moroccan salads, chicken tagine, roast shoulder of lamb, dessert, copious carafes of wine, then mint tea and bikkies. Don’t need to eat again for a week.
But we will – tomorrow night in Tamedaght, our first stop en route to the Sahara Desert.
No photos tonight – but I did get a few more posted from yesterday, so do check back.
Day Two: Marrakech (with pics!)
OK. Success by visiting Ev’s riad – El Youssoufi – where the internet is more powerful.
I have also updated Day One (with pics) so do take a look back.
Here are some pics from the Jardin Marjorelle yesterday (Thursday) morning. More from the Bahia Palace, the Si Said Museum and our time last night in the extraordinary Jemma el Fna square will be posted later, so do check back again!
Day One (with pics): Marrakech
Here are some pics from Wednesday. First two are of the group’s excursion to the Atlas Mountains. Remainder are of my adventures while confirming the program for Friday in the souks and museums of the Marrakech medina.
Loaded the rest! Finally. These are from my excursion to museums in Marrakech with Ev, Chris and George on Wednesday.
And here’s the full group (minus photographers Ken and Faye) assembled for the welcome to Morocco dinner (and brief talks from Ev – standing left – and me – standing right).
Day Two: Marrakech
Sorry for the late post. Having a bit of an internet problem here at the gorgeous Riad Ambre et Épices — very very slow! Hence no pics can be uploaded which is very frustrating. I will keep persevering!
Day Two in Marrakech (Thursday): a very full day with plenty of painting opportunities. We began at a civilised hour of 10am with departure from our three riads in a fleet of six 4WDs for Jardin Majorelle.
Just stunning: the colours and plants and the layout of the place, with ponds, small pavilions, palms, cacti, etc. are all exquisite. I look forward to sharing some photos of it soon.
Our group painted there all morning before lunch in the garden restaurant and a visit to the small but fabulous Berber Museum. The artists continued painting in the Jardin Majorelle in the afternoon while the others explored the Bahia Palace with its amazing tiles (zellij) and the Dar Si Said museum, also decorated, on the upper level, with the most beautiful zelllij and painted ceilings.
The day was not yet done: by 5.30pm we had all regathered at Café Aqua in the big Djmaa el Fna square (the emblematic centre of Marrakech) where Ev was able to hold another art class from the balcony with a perfect view over the activities below.
Dinner was planned to be at one of the many street food stalls in the square, but only four of the 22 opted for this experience (Ev, Helen, Pam and me), while the others had traditional (!!) pizzas on the terrace.
Back to the riads by 9 — getting lost en route while walking through the souk after being dropped next to one of our local mosques, which wakes us at 6 each day with the call to prayer.
Abdul was here at our riad with cold beers and a glass of wine. Very welcome.
Pics to follow, I hope, in a later post.
Day One: Marrakech
Pam led a group of 13 today on an optional tour to the Atlas Mountains with views over snow capped peaks that are up to 4135 metres – the highest in North Africa.
The group was entertained in a Berber home with traditional mint tea, passed through the market town of Asni and survived a thunderstorm while lunching by the river in the Ourika Valley. The river was crystal clear before lunch and dark red afterwards.
Pam’s intrepid tourist group also met four of our drivers who will take us in their 4WDs from Saturday– and I have to report the ladies are in love! Although one, who’s name must remain secret (it was Robyn), thought the driver’s name was Jasmin! Mmmm.
Meanwhile Ev and Paul, accompanied by Chris and George, explored the Musée de Marrakech and the Ali ben Yousssef medersa (wonderful tiles and architecture — pics below). We then checked out painting locations in the Place des Épices for Friday before a pleasant lunch that ended with a massive thunderstorm.
Our EVocative Morocco tour formally began tonight with all 22 of us gathered at the Riad Ambre et Épices for a welcome dinner. Moroccan painting starts in earnest tomorrow.
Sorry: no photos tonight. Internet connection can’t upload them. Will try in morning, so do log on again.
Day Zero: Getting to Morocco
OK, I give up! I can’t fathom this software I subscribed to for easy blogging. I’ve been somewhat technically challenged here because I can’t seem to find a way of starting a whole new blog for Morocco without losing (or at least totally changing the titles and feel) of the previous Iberian Interlude posts.
So I’ve taken the easy way out and just modified the colours (a bit) and the title and here we go with a whole new series of posts about Ev’s Art Tour to magical and EVocative (geddit?) Morocco.
It’s Tuesday (Oct 4) and while two hearty souls had already sped from Lisbon to Marrakech yesterday and three others are arriving tomorrow, most of us (17 to be exact) headed here from Lisbon airport today thanks to TAP Portugal.
Slight dramas at check-in when Ev was bumped from the flight but she eventually got a boarding pass at the gate.
36 deg in Marrakech today so a bit of a shock after mild weather in Lisbon. We are spread between three riads in the Medina. Luggage was carted here as no cars allowed — only donkeys.
Everyone doing their own thing for dinner tonight. Real tour begins tomorrow.
Pics below of luggage delivery and Riad Ambre et Épices.
Day Fourteen: Monsaraz-Lisbon
A few extra pics to start with from our cruise last night on Lake Alqueva and our feast at Restaurante Sem-Fim. And a couple more from Monsaraz, the cromeleques of Xerez and the Alentejo countryside.
To Lisbon today after an early (that means 8am) breakfast for painting from the miradouro (lookout) at São João de Alcântara in the Bairro Alto.
Our Iberian Interude ended with dinner at Clube de Fado in the Alfama and a chance to hear some wonderful Portuguese music. Back to our hotel (Lisboa Plaza – highly recommended) at midnight.
Now for Morocco! A new blog will begin on Tuesday.
Day Thirteen: Monsaraz
Our last day in this exquisite mountain-top village in the Alentejo region of Portugal. Gorgeous weather yet again. Lots of painting all day – and some stunning results. Lots of eating.
And a cruise on the lake/dam/river – which, we were told has a total length (counting all the inlets) superior to the coastline of Portugal (more than 1800km)!
The cruise, with canapes and drinks, included a chance to see the sunset before we continued onto Telheiro, just below Monsaraz, for a sumptuous meal of roast suckling pig, litres of wine, and the largest dollop of chocolate mousse anyone had ever seen.
The second last pic is of our wonderful driver, Fernando.
Day Twelve: Évora
A short bus journey (50km) today to Évora, another Roman city, and the regional capital of the Alentejo.
The temple to Diana (Roman not British princess), churches, shops, town squares and … lots of tourists: mainly French, Italian and Chinese.
We did our usual division of labour, with the artists concentrating on creating masterpieces despite tourist groups peering over their shoulder, blocking their view or in the case of one uncharacteristicly rude Swedish lady, sitting on top of a bag of art supplies!
Lunch was interesting: very aggressive wait staff who refused to take beverage orders until everyone had ordered food. One of us (that would be me) got a little tetchy about that. Calm was restored after the second bottle of vinho verde.
One interesting chapel we all visited at the end of the day is the Capela dos Ossos (Bones Chapel) lined with skulls and real human bones. Fascinating in a macabre fashion. The sign on the door says “We bones that are here are awaiting yours.” Charming.
Back to Monsaraz in the afternoon and we’ll be here all day tomorrow. AFL Grand Final day – but it’s at 5am our time so not sure who will be switching on their iPads at that hour! We have one ardent Doggies fan in the group but she’s too nervous to watch.